Budget:

Budget is the foremost factor when it comes to buying a DSLR camera. Over the years with advent of technology, the prices of DSLR cameras have fallen considerably. With many manufacturers aiming for various market segments, you can get a DSLR camera for as low as Rs.20,000.

For getting a point and shoot camera one just needed to spend entire amount on camera but DSLR is a different ball game. DSLR can take different lenses, flash units, GPS units & many more accessories which make them a complex system to deal with. Being having the ability to interchange lens, you need to properly dissect your budget to accommodate various lenses. Choice of lenses will depend entirely on type of photography you wish to know. The default lens(Kit Lens) is good to start with but its limited in reach & performance. Better performing lenses are expensive, sometimes even more than the camera body itself. So you’ll need to decide whether you can spend entire budget amount on camera along-with kit lens & get better lenses later on or purchase better lens at the time of camera purchase itself. Another option is to get camera along-with two or three kit lens bundled in. This option generally comprises of the default kit lens together with a medium telephoto lens bundled in. This option will provide you with benefits of economy. You can go for such option if you plan to get the same lens in future which is bundled as secondary lens in the package.

Beginners are overtly excited to purchase a plethora of cheap lenses without doing much research. It is better to stay with the default kit lens for sometime & then later buy a lens when you began to realize exactly what you’ll be using your DSLR camera for.

Brand Power:

Canon, Nikon, Sony, Panasonic, Pentax and the list goes on. A lot of manufacturers today have entered into DSLR market catering to various market segments. This has lead to cut throat competition with every manufacturer trying to innovate or steal features to conquer the market. Sure this has benefited consumer of lower pricing but it has also made a tough choice as for which brand to go. Furthermore people get pushed from their peers towards a specific brand. Its a simple logic that nobody loves to hear negative things about the brand product they own. One should try to learn to take their opinion but with a pinch of salt. You ask, why with a pinch of salt? The reason is that while most folks won’t tell you negative things about a brand they own but some honest ones will do list them. Combining the good list & the bad list will have the brand report card in front of you to decide your purchase.

As per my opinion, each & every brand has its positives & negatives. Some offer better value for money but will sacrifice on performance while others offer bucket load of features at an attractive price tag. No brand will offer you a complete package. It again boils down to which features you need, what type of work you’ll need the camera for & last but not the least your budget.

In Indian market, currently Canon and Nikon are seriously battling it out to win the consumers vote. Though Nikon has been in camera market for a long time, Canon in-spite of being late entrant has shook Nikon world like a storm. Now both manufacturers play cat & mouse games with each other. If Nikon launches a product then Canon follows with a better or equally good one and same is applicable vice-versa. If you live in India, I strongly recommend getting DSLR camera from either Canon or Nikon. The reason being wide availability of lenses, accessories & customer support. Also third party lenses & accessories are available easily for both Canon & Nikon. Most often when you decide on a camera in your budget, the opposite(Canon or Nikon) brand will have a similar priced counterpart. Now deciding will get tougher but you need not worry as both products will perform almost similar. Though it is recommended stay calm & properly judge them on some parameters which I’ll discuss later on.

What you need the Camera for?

You have withdrawn the money from your bank & are all set to hit your nearest camera dealer to get your first DSLR camera. Stop! First, have you ever thought of the above question? If no its the perfect time to think about it. DSLR cameras are versatile & one can do pretty much anything with them but still there is no “one camera fits all photographers” in the market yet. If you’re a studio photographer then you’ll be using the camera under studio lighting setup & hence it is pointless to go for a camera which offers better low light performance. Instead it is recommended to buy an intermediate camera & spend the rest of budget on studio lights & other gear. Similarly a action photographer should see to it that the camera he purchases is able to shoot at a fast burst rate. Knowing your needs beforehand will help a lot in making the right decision in purchasing DSLR camera. Once you have decided read on, to find the meaning of various technical/photo-graphical terms used by camera manufacturers. You’ll need to understand them well so that you can make a right purchase.

Things you should look out for in an DSLR Camera!

Sensor Size:

Being a first time buyer, most probably you will be buying a camera having a cropped sensor. A cropped sensor is one having an area lesser than 24mm x 36mm of standard 35mm film format. A full frame camera has sensor which measures 24mm x 36mm(same as 35mm film format). Full frame DSLR camera’s are expensive & you will need to spend at-least Rs.1,30,000 to get one. Full frame has various advantages over the cropped one in terms of better noise control, better contrast range & shallower depth of field to name a few. I assume you’ll be buying a cropped sensor DSLR which is further divided into APS-C & APS-H type based on their physical measurements. The latter APS-H(28.7mm x 19.1mm) type is once again expensive & found only in a few cameras, so let’s concentrate on APS-C sensor which are found in most of the DSLR costing till Rs.1,00,000.

Nikon APS-C sensor has a slight more area than on that of Canon APS-C sensor. Nikon sensor has an effective area of 23.6 mm X 15.8 mm while canon has 22.2 mm x 14.8 mm. The larger sensor area on Nikon gives them a slight edge when packing pixels onto the sensor but the edge is too less that one can ignore it safely.

As the sensor is smaller than the 35mm film format, the lenses you use with the camera are altered in their focal length & viewing angle. A term known as ‘Crop Factor’ defines how would your lens act on the cropped sensor of your camera. Generally, the focal length specification on lens refers to its focal length on a full frame camera & not on cropped ones. So to find out the focal length of your lens on cropped sensor, the crop factor of your camera should be known. Nikon has a crop factor of 1.5x whereas Canon has a crop factor of 1.6x. Multiplying the crop factor by the focal length will give you the corresponding focal length on your cropped sensor camera. E.G : A 50mm lens on full frame DSLR(35mm format) will act as 75mm on Nikon’s cropped sensor DSLR cameras. Here 50 x 1.5 = 75mm. Similarly, the same 50mm lens will act as 50 x 1.6 = 80mm on Canon cropped sensor cameras. The crop factor is an important factor which you should know while buying your camera as it will be helpful when getting lenses for your camera later on. If you’re going to buy DSLR camera for commercial purpose then you should try to go for a full frame sensor. Also since lens for crop sensor(Canon) won’t fit on your future full frame sensor camera invest wisely. Though DX format Nikon lenses can be used on Nikon full frame cameras.

Megapixel:

Quite often than not most of the people as well as the salesperson give a lot of weight to this 9 letter word. You often hear the statement, “The more the megapixel the better is the camera.” This is not true at all. The more the megapixel doesn’t necessarily mean the camera is better. The term ‘Megapixel’ just gives an indication about the number of pixels the cameras sensor can record. Generally you need more megapixels if you plan to enlarge your images to put in your living room or to print them out on a fairly large sheet of paper. Gone are the days of DSLR having 6 MP, now even the entry level DSLR camera offer at-least 10MP, so you need not worry about enlargements. To be on a safer side get a camera having at-least 12MP. If you plan to get camera with more than 12MP then make sure you invest in a better lens sooner or later to take the full advantage of the increased pixels.

ISO:

ISO the digital counterpart to speed ratings of film determines the amount of light you need to make the exposures. In digital cameras ISO makes the cameras sensor more sensitive to light. The signals received by the sensor are amplified & so you can shoot hand-held in low lighting conditions. Though this increased sensitivity also brings noise into photographs which makes a photography lose its quality. Generally most DSLR camera’s don’t produce major noise in images till ISO 400-800. ISO is often exaggerated by manufacturers in bid to advertise the low light capabilities of the camera. If you see a claim of a DSLR camera offering ISO 100-12800(common by today’s standard), then most probably you will not get acceptable pictures at ISO 12800. Its just a marketing gimmick. In practical, the cropped sensor of DSLR is not made to climb such higher ISO and getting noise in photographs is natural due to limited sensor area. So don’t let the high ISO range of a DSLR camera influence much of your opinion about a particular camera model. It is better to look for a camera which offers decent performance till ISO 800, preferably till ISO 1600.

Burst Mode:

Burst mode also known as continuous mode allows one to shoot several shot in burst. It is mentioned in frames per second(fps). If a camera means 3.5 fps continuous shooting then it takes 3.5 shots in a second or you can say 7 shots in two seconds. Most of the entry level DSLR’ offer a burst rate of 3 fps which is good but if you’re an action photographer or would love more control overt the exact moment then you will need a DSLR which can shoot at a higher fps. The enthusiast level DSLR offers a burst shooting of 6 fps which will allow one to capture the moment with great precision. One thing you should keep in mind is that the camera has a limited buffer(Temporary memory besides primary memory) which will slow down the burst mode after it is filled up. The camera then will slow down the burst mode or some may stop before the images in buffer memory are written to the card. Also if you plan to shoot on RAW + JPEG in continuous burst then the buffer will fill very quickly. So read the manufacturers specification closely as to how many shots the camera will take before it slows down. Burst mode also is affected by the memory card you use in your DSLR camera. Generic brand memory cards have slow write speeds which will make the burst speed slow on your camera. For good results, you’ll need to get a sufficiently faster memory card which can cope up with the huge amount of data processed by the camera in matter of seconds.

Video Recording:

Been able to record videos has been a latest trend in the DSLR market. Though hardcore photographers would not care much about taking videos with the DSLR but amateurs will sure find the video recording useful. Being interchangeable camera, a DSLR will give you freedom to film videos & give the desired look. The 720p & 1080p video recording modes found in today’s DSLR will please users who demand HD quality playback. Though one must not forget that video though improved by leaps & bounds is still not perfect in a DSLR camera. One even has to learn the art of video recording on DSLR which is not so simple like on point and shoot cameras. Finally, the videos are saved without much compression & will end up eating your memory card space even for a short length clip. So you’ll need to spend on getting a huge & fast memory card. If you’re ready to do the above & are interested in recording short video clips then you should look for a DSLR offering the same. Settle for at-least 720p video capable camera which records at 1280 x 720 at 24/30fps, if you wish to view on normal sized monitors or TV sets. You’ll need 1080p(1920 x 1080) only if you own a huge HD monitor & a more bigger HD TV set at your home.

Rugged Body:

DSLR Camera’s are a delicate piece of machinery. They are manufactured with heavy precision & it means one should take good care of the camera to protect it from malfunction. Most of the DSLR camera which fall under Rs.50,000 price range have body which is made-up of engineering plastic. Though the body is tough but for those who are on move & careless type of users should consider investing in a strong body. This will mean getting a tougher magnesium allow body which will not come under Rs.50,000 but will save you from wasting money on second DSLR camera in case the one you purchase conks off due to your own mistake. Further just like any electronic equipment, using DSLR camera’s in monsoon is a risky affair. Care should be taken as water can easily enter into cameras body through crevices & may cause heavy damage to the internal electronic circuits. Camera’s which offer weather sealing(to a certain extent) start at around Rs.1,00,000 mark. Moreover some people don’t like the plasticky feel of the entry-intermediate DSLR cameras. If you’re one of such users then you have no option but to upscale your budget & go for a better body mostly found in models targeted at enthusiast photographers.

Weight:

The camera you purchase should have just the right amount of weight so that it doesn’t feel too skinny nor too rock solid. Camera weight is essential to consider if you are the one who takes camera with you always so as not to miss any photograph opportunity. If the camera is heavy no sooner your neck will start aching & this mean you not enjoying the photography session. A light camera on the other hand will not provide you with the perfect balance while releasing the shutter by causing camera shake. So you need to get a camera that is neither too heavy nor too light. Thus while purchasing a digital camera use the camera for a while so you can get an idea of its weight. The weight criteria is subjective so it’s best to check the camera on your own than to go by suggestions of your friends or colleagues. Also make sure all the buttons are quickly accessible as you don’t want to miss that award winning shot. If you plan to invest in an additional battery grip then do keep in mind it will add to the weight of the camera.

That’s all! Now you’re ready to purchase your first DSLR camera & set out on a photography voyage. Happy Clicking

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What will you need to do Light Painting Photography?

> A small light source like Mobile Torch or Laser. Better if you can have many in different colors.

> Prosumer camera having Manual controls or DSLR camera.

> A Light-Proof room.

> A Tripod is handy but not necessary.

How to do Light Painting?

> Set Camera on tripod or on any solid surface & set the shutter speed to about 5 secs or more. Narrow apertures are preferred. If your camera has Manual Focussing then make use of it. Now set a self-timer of about 10 secs on your camera if you wish to do Light Painting yourself & have nobody around you.

> Fire up your laser light & make patterns pointing it towards the camera. To begin with you can try alphabets, then move on to simple shapes like heart, lolipop etc. Once you get comfortable try to make complicated shapes.

Tips for Light Painting:

> Use self-timer to minimize the camera shake. Use it even when you have someone to do light painting in front of the camera.

> Light Painting doesn’t necessarily mean moving the light source to create paintings but it can also be done the other way round by keeping the light source stationary & moving the camera in distinct patterns when the shutter is open.

> Preferably do Light Painting at night as then you won’t need to worry about sunlight entering your room.

> If your camera doesn’t allows manual control over shutter speed then try shooting under night mode or night portrait mode. Though it won’t give desirable results still you can atleast create a painting instead of doing nothing.

> Set ISO to the lowest as being dark you don’t want the photographs to come out noisy.

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Zoom – As most of us own a simple, point & shoot camera we are limited with the amount of zoom. Don’t expect to see the craters of moon in your shots as seen on shots from the hubble telescope. You’ll most probably use the entire optical zoom offered by your camera unless you want to include surrounding objects too.

Focus – The moon being a small bright object will most likely confuse the auto focusing system of camera. In this case I advise to set the focus to manual & then set it to focus on infinity. If your camera doesn’t offers manual focus then you will have a hard time locking focus on the moon. Try refocusing till auto focus locks on.

Shutter Speed/Exposure – Shutter speed required in case of moon is generally a stop or two down over perfect exposure. This is since the moon is so far away & bright setting perfect exposure will blow it away i.e. Overexpose. So it is recommended to underexpose the moon to bring out the minutest details of the moon surface.

Aperture – Aperture doesn’t plays far too significant role in our example of moon shot. I have experimented and found mid values to be generally good over the extremes. My camera has maximum aperture of F 2.8 & minimum aperture of F 8.0. Here I use aperture value of F 4.0.

ISO – The ISO should be set to lowest possible. Since your frame will include a lot of dark night sky then bumping up the ISO levels will bring in more noise. So find a perfect balance of ISO based on Shutter Speed & Aperture.

Metering Mode – Since our subject, the moon is a small distant object surrounded by dark sky we need to use ‘Spot Metering’. Spot metering will ensure that our dark sky is well exposed keeping in consideration our small bright moon.

Apart from the above, I recommend using a tripod with camera set on self-timer to prevent camera shake. Now release the shutter & you should have a breath-taking shot of Moon.

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Panning is difficult to master as at times it requires a bit of luck. Let’s see how to take a pan shot.

1) Panning requires you to follow the object. It is recommended to choose a parallel path. The direction doesn’t matter but be sure to stay parallel to the subject. For e.g. on pavement adjacent to a highway. Also you will need a simple background as complex backgrounds tend to mix the subject & the end pan shot won’t look that beautiful.

2) Once you have selected a suitable location mount your tripod if you plan to use one (you will need to use one if under low lightning). Panning can be done without a tripod but you will require steady hand & flexible body to take good pan shots. If you use tripod adjust it so that it can be maneuvered easily in a horizontal path.

3) Now it’s time to set exposure on your camera. This is the trickiest part of panning photography. To take pan shots you will need to keep down the shutter speed. The shutter speed should be fast as it will freeze the entire scene just like any normal shot. It should not be too slow either to cause a hazy picture.

ISO can be set as per the shutter speed. If you have a good camera which captures noise free images under low light you won’t face any problem. But if you own a typical consumer camera then be prepared to have some noisy images. Again remember not to raise the ISO to a higher level as it will give a static shot.

Aperture can be adjusted in accordance to shutter speed & ISO levels. From what I have noticed Aperture doesn’t plays a much significant role in panning.

Auto-Focus will do a good job but at times it will definitely face difficulty in focusing. At times it won’t even focus properly. To counter this you can use manual focus.

4) Once you are ready with the above its time to shoot. As your subject comes under your range, aim the camera & half depress the shutter to lock focus on the subject. Now follow the subject in its path & compile the image. Once satisfied, release the shutter while still following the subject. Remember not to jerk or stop in between as it won’t give you the pan effect.

Panning requires a lot of practice & patience. Most of your early try at panning will bring out a bucketful of hazy or improperly focused shots. But don’t let this deter you as once you get adept at panning you will leave the viewer admiring your beautiful pan shot. Good luck!

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To start off, I started off searching for eligible candidates on social networking sites & on my favourite forums. The response wasn’t that great but I know that it will garner more attention over time. After wasting a week eventually I decided to undertake the meet with four members. The meet was scheduled on the first day of Diwali i.e. on 17^th October at Bandra Bandstand. It was attended my participants from Thinkdigit forum hence I called it ThinkDigit/ Mumbai Photography Meet.

All of us first met at Dadar Station & then boarded a bus to Bandra Bandstand for the photography session. Upon alighting at Bandra, we got to the Bandra Bandstand after a brief walk. We hadn’t decided upon a agenda since binding photography is not what I like. Good photographs are often taken without any bindings or rigid agenda. Once we got to the Bandra coast, we decided to walk as ahead as we can till we reach the water. It was a low tide that day hence passing over the rocks was possible. Offcourse we had to be careful since the rocks were greasy & there were a few moments where one or the other member was found losing his balance. Also we had to keep our eyes open lest we step over some crab or rock fish. Thankfully everybody got to far end of the coast safely. All the way we enjoyed snapping any interesting thing which caught our attention – rock snakes, flowing water, sun, macros of rocks, members etc.

It was a bright sunny day & provided ample opportunities for Photography. All the members were free to shoot as per their will & there were absolutely no restrictions – complete freedom. As the sun began to set we decided to return to the coast as the light was beginning to fade & even the water level was rising. We returned back to the coast after passing over the rather complex route of greasy boulders which was adventure of some kind. Once we got to the coast a beautiful sunset was awaiting us. The colours in the sky were magnificent & nature was at its best. Everybody decided to capture it in their cameras & after that we snapped some group shots at the Bandra Bandstand. Passerby’s were all eyes as we posed for camera which was mounted on a tripod. It was good feeling as Rhitwick captured his first MANUAL shot. He was happy so was I. He won’t forget it for a long time.

After sometime, we caught a bus & headed straightaway to Bandra station for a quick bite of Kunj Vihar Vadapav before ending the meet. Once at Kunj Vihar everybody was seen indulging in the hot vadapav which was followed by a cool Lassi. We left the eatery & then headed over to the opposite side of the road to the Bandra station. Tickets were purchased & finally it was time to say goodbye.

I was happy that finally my long term dream had come under action. Not to forget I gained some experience & came back home with some really good shots. Rhitwick was the happiest guy I think as he took the first manual shot of his life & even learnt a few things from the meet. He commented that it was the first meet where he not only had fun but also learnt a few things about photography. The success of this first photography meet has lifted the members who are showing keen interest in taking another meet again. I’m not complaining as I feel that it would do wonders to our photography skills if we go out for such meets twice or thrice each month. The next meet is going to be held sooner & this time around I hope to see some fresh recruits in our group. If you are passionate about photography & can join us on weekends for photography in Mumbai then feel free to drop me an email. I would be more than glad to welcome you in this group.

Watch the pictures we captured in the first session of Weekend Photography in Mumbai over Flickr.

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Doing Out-of-Focus photography is a simple. First select an ideal subject for photography. Second switch to MANUAL mode of the camera & set improper focus. If your camera flashes a stop signal(Due to incorrect focus) ignore the warning & press the shutter all the way down. There are no hard & fast rules for this type of photography but the basic rules of photography will definitely help in making your pictures more eye catching.

For example, have a look at the image below.

Nothing impressive, right? Now check this one.

This is what Out-of-Focus can do to an otherwise bland image. Here is one more image for you to gulp on.

To master Out-of-Focus photography you won’t need much skill but you will definitely require a creative imagination. Try it & share your Out-of-Focus shots under the comments.

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This time, I decided to carry my camera to every Ganesh Pandal & just everywhere to get better with my photography skills. The pics are shot in & around Mumbai.  Enjoy Lord Ganesha on your computer screens. As always you are free to critique the images. I would love to have your feedback.

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Introduction

Before we proceed let’s get familiar with Bokeh. Bokeh is a Japanese word for Blur. The blurred portion is often the parts which are extras & are often distracting. Using Bokeh will help the viewers concentrate on the main subject which is an important aspect of a good photograph. By getting sufficient Bokeh you can lend a professional feel to your photograph, which every passionate photographer loves to yearn. Now let’s learn how to create Bokeh effect in your photographs.

Things you should know forehand

# Type of Camera:

The amount of Bokeh which you get is directly related to the camera you use. Generally, small compact & prosumer cameras won’t get heavy blur owing to the small size of their sensors. Meanwhile, with a good DSLR you can expect a total smooth blur in backdrop of your subjects.

# MANUAL Focus:

MANUAL focus is of utmost importance to generate Bokeh. Automatically letting camera focus generally doesn’t generate good amount of Bokeh. With MANUAL focus you can take total control as to where the camera should focus & thus separating the background with a good amount of Bokeh. Most compacts won’t let you focus manually, though the latest one’s do offer MANUAL FOCUS. If you own a prosumer it should have MANUAL FOCUS generally hidden under some menu. For DSLR owners just change the small switch on lens to MANUAL focus to focus manually.

# Aperture:

The wider the aperture the more Bokeh you will get in your photographs & vice-versa. If you use a DSLR, it would be better you use a fast lens typically having a wider aperture of F1.8 or even lesser. Compact cameras generally have the F3.0 or above as the starting point for aperture. A prosumer offers even more scope for Bokeh but still a DSLR with wide aperture lens is the need if you want really good Bokeh.

# Focal Length (Zoom):

The higher the focal length the more Bokeh you will get. A super zoom prosumer will do the job. Compacts will find a hard time here whereas DSLR owners can replace the lens to a high zoom one.

Shooting Photographs with Bokeh

1) Change your camera mode to MANUAL mode by turning the mode dial on your camera.

2) Use MANUAL FOCUS (if your camera offers) to focus. By using MANUAL FOCUS you can focus precisely on your subject which will help adding more Bokeh to your photograph.

3) Compose the shot normally & set the shutter speed, ISO, White Balance & other parameters as required.

4) Zoom into your subject & try to get a very tight shot. If you’re having difficulties in focussing take a step or two back & then try focussing again.

5) Turn down the Aperture to widest your camera offers (Do remember that widest Aperture will be represented by small F Number & vice-versa. Do not get confused). Do note changing focal length (Zoom) will alter the aperture appropriately, so adjust accordingly.

6) Sometimes shooting under Macro mode helps but it’s not required since when manually focussing you will automatically focus within the macro range. This is just a cheat trick for those who want to get the easy way out for generating Bokeh in their photographs. Do remember that you can’t always use this trick though.

Conclusion:

Now that you know how to generate Bokeh in photographs, grab your camera & start practising it. Do leave links to your photo gallery under the comments so that our readers (including me) can get a look at it.

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